Causes and Remedies of Sewing Problems

Sewing Problems: Sewing is a basic operation of garments manufacturing. Lots of problems occur during sewing operation. In this article I will discuss on various causes of sewing problems and their remedies.

Common Causes and Remedies of Sewing Problems: A. Problems of stitch formation

i) Slipped stitch: Missing of interloping or interlacing between top and bottom threads.

Causes:  Looper or hook and needle are not properly placed.

Irregular thread tension.

Needle deflection.

Needle threads loop size too small.

Remedies:  Proper placement of needle and looper or hook. Accurate tension maintaining. Needle can be changed.ii) Staggered stitch: Stitch is not parallel produced by needle.

Causes:  Needle deflection.

Due to wrong needle point.

Defected motion of feed dog.

Wrong adjustment of needle and thread size.

Remedies:  Increase needle size. Needle size and thread size to be altered. Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.iii) Unbalance Stitch: Improper interlacement of threads especially in lock stitch machine.

Causes:  Wrong tension of sewing thread.

Used wrong thread path.

Snagging of needle with bobbing case.

Remedies:  Setting of proper tension to the sewing threads. Use of right thread path. Bobbin case to be smooth.iv) Variable stitch density: Number of stitch per unit length is not equal.

Causes: Improper unwinding of thread from package during sewing.

Twisting of needle thread in the bottom of thread package.

Snarling of thread before tension disk.

Use of broken check spring.

Fraying of thread in the needle.

Remedies:  The position of thread guide must be 2.5 times higher than the position of thread package. Foam pad must be used to the bottom of thread package. Winding of more threads in the thread guide. Check spring need to be changed. Finer threads must be used or to be used heavy needle.v) Frequent thread breakage: Thread breaking frequently during sewing.

Causes:  More tension to the bobbin threads or more rotating of bobbin.

Wrong fitting of bobbin case.

Remedies:  Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin. The tension must be adjusted to the bobbin threads. Checking out the damaging case.B. Problem of puckers:

Causes:  Variable or uneven stretch on fabric plies.

Fabric dimensional instability.

Extension of sewing thread.

Sewing threads shrinkage.

Fabric construction Mismatched patterns.

Remedies:  Proper feed mechanism should be used with equal ply stretch. Fabric shrinkage property must be almost equal. Using less tension to the thread. Fabric and sewing thread shrinkage% should be equal. By reducing stitch density for heavy fabric. Pattern should be matched properly.C. Damage of fabrics on seam line:  Fabrics or threads are damaged along the seam line during sewing.

Causes:  Mechanical damage.

Needle heating damage.

Remedies: By using perfect size and shape of needle and needle point. By testing sew ability before sewing fabrics. By flowing cool air on the needle during sewing. By using lubricant to the needle and fabrics to the sewing line.